The Two Most Asked Questions at Fish Pet Stores

1. Why are my new fish dying?

2. Why is my water murky/bad smelling?

Why Aquarium Water Changes and Water Testing Are Important

Each of my aquariums is a closed but incomplete ecosystem. Sure, I have a heater, thermometer, great filtration, plant and fish friendly lighting, and I add dechlorinater, aquarium salt and Cycle as needed. My fish eat the live plants.

It is incomplete because it is a sealed ecosystem, unlike Nature.

In the wild these fish would have fresh moving water, constantly changing the micro environment in which they live. Thus is true even for lake-dwelling fish, like African Cichlids, since streams feed into their lake habitats, and rainfall (however intermittent) replenishes evaporated water.

I tell all my customers that the first line of defense against poor water quality issues are regular water testing and water changes via gravel vacuuming.

The Solution: Weekly quality tests and weekly aquarium cleaning.

There are three methods for water testing:

1. Bring a water sample in a clean container or even a ziplock bag to your nearest fish store -- after you call to see if they will perform free water testing. Be sure they explain the results to you and help you find any solutions you need. The best places will give you a form with the test results written down. The form explains what is being measured, why, and the normal parameters. Even if they don't have such a form, the really good salespeople explain this to you and even show you how to read the test strip, as well as what products can help if there is a problem. Typically, you get the 6 in 1 test, but can also have ammonia or chlorine tested if you ask for it. Sometimes they will even test your salt level, if you ask nicely.

2. Buy and use dip sticks such as Jungle's 6-in-1 Quick Dip Test Kit. I scoop out water from my aquarium in a container I use just for this purpose. Dip the stick in, then remove quickly. Only an ammonia test strip has to be gently waved in the water. Don't shake! Compare colors on the strip to the paper chart on (or in) the bottle. Nitrate and Nitrite results take a few seconds to develop.

3. The test tube kit (aka Aquarium Pharmaceuticals Freshwater Master Test Kit). You have test tubes, reagents, and lots of directions and charts -- OK it is a little like Chemistry 101. But the results are the most accurate of all.

NEVER put any of the test water back in your aquarium -- the chemicals from the tests are not good for fish.

The Genteel Art of Gravel Vacuuming a Fish Tank

WHY?
The purpose is to vacuum up the fish waste and uneaten food (you haven't been overfeeding have you?*) so it does not pollute your incomplete ecosystem aquarium. If you don't do this, the nitrates lead to nitrates which in turn causes ammonia, which stresses fish and can kill them. Fish that have been living in an uncleaned aquarium become used to the gradually deteriorating water conditions. Newly purchased fish are less able to tolerate a drastic change from a shop tank to poor water quality in a home tank and so are more likely to gasp for oxygen, drop listlessly to the bottom, and even die.

WHAT?
OK, there is the manual siphon and the tap or faucet driven siphon such as Python No-Spill Clean and Fill Aquarium Kits. There is also the non-water removing sludge extractor, the more expensive continuously working waste removal system, and an inexpensive battery powered waterless gravel cleaner. I have only used the first two products, and they both work well for me. I have the 20 foot extension for the Python so I can thoroughly clean and replenish the water in all four of my current aquariums in less than 30 minutes.

HOW?
First, 1 inch = 10% of your tank's water volume. Change 30% or 3 inches at one time. Follow this rule, and you won't risk temperature-shocking your fish when you add clean dechlorinated water. Having said that, here are the two simple steps to avoiding temperature shock:

a. Prepare water and let stand at room temperature for about 1 to 2 hours
b. For larger (or very dirty) aquariums, mentally divide your aquarium into halves and gravel vacuum the left half of the tank bottom today and the right half in about 3 to 4 days from now. You can even "divide" your aquarium into thirds, so long as you only siphon out about 30% of the water with the fish waste at a time.

I wield the rigid tubing which remains in the fish tank like a cookie cutter. Push down on one spot gently, wait until the cloud of waste rises from the gaps in the gravel, moving high into the tubing, then lift slightly and move the tube to the next spot, gradually going over the entire bottom of the tank. No fish are removed, but decorations can be moved as waste tends to accumulate around their bases. Live plants can be gently gravel vacuumed around.

Each product has its own usage explanations. While you are removing fish waste (which is grey, brown, blackish in color, while uneaten food is pale) you are (usually) also removing water. After using the gravel vacuuming products that remove water, you must of course replace the water with clean, dechlorinated water. Be sure to add dechlorinator/water conditioner to the fresh water either before or as you add it to the cleaned tank.

*N.B. As a general rule feed fish once a day, and only what they can consume in 3 to 5 minutes. If possible, turn off the filter while feeding. It teaches the fish to recognize feeding time, and keeps your filter from grabbing up the food before the fish do. As an added bonus, this extends the life of your filter media by not plugging up the micro pores with uneaten food.